Desert Views: October 2009

Monday, October 25 and Roy and I are off on another adventure. The weather is holding a little warmer than I'd like, so I decide to climb in Idyllwild. Of course that's not a bad choice, it's just a little longer day than climbing in Joshua Tree and I was wanting a short day. We had to do our good samaritan work for the week, so we took a young man to Beaumont to his car, not much out of our way. I gave half a thought to go to Big Rock at lake Perris, but decided against it due to the temperature. Not that hot, but warmer than I wanted.

We arrived in Humber Park and checked out the parking lot. It appeared that we could have Suicide Rock all to ourselves, plus the shorter climbs fit in good with my plan for a short day. We started hiking just before 10 and made our way up to the crag. I decided to stay in the sun, since the temperature was about 60 degrees and we went over to the Buttress of Cracks. Roy had heard a lot about this area, but hasn't climbed here much, so we had a little tour, with me pointing out routes and telling stories of my early days on the rock.

After looking around, I decided to climb Captain Hook, 5.7 and one of my first leads. Well, I looked at the start and decided to do the direct start, although over the years I've mostly started with the layback to the far left. The layback is straight forward but strenuous, like most laybacks. The direct start took a false start to work out the footwork and then I was on the climb. After the first few moves I was hoping the climbing would get easy, but it didn't. My memory about this start told me that once in the main chimney that it would still be an awkward move to easy ground and it was. Sloping slick chimney without any positive holds. This wasn't a good sign. I managed to squirm my way up to a good rest and protection. I was out of breath, my mouth dry and I hadn't even climbed 20 feet.

The climbing is not too difficult for the next section, until the chimney becomes vertical and narrower. At this point, technique becomes important. Well, I don't climb chimneys all that often, so I made it up, but it was a work out. I finally reached the bottom of the large chalkstone that gave the climb its name. When I first climbed this route, the bottom of the chockstone had a horn of rock called the Crocodile Snout, that was shaped, like a Crocodile snout. It had a nice lip on the end where the nostrils would be which made for a great handhold and those with confidence would hang on it with their feet dangling free to thrill onlookers below. Well, this feature is gone now and one has to climb a little further to get to the next horn, which isn't as positive, for me anyway. It must have been quite a surprise for the climber that broke off that horn. Thank goodness there is really bomber protection at the base of the chockstone.

Well, after taking another lengthy time I was able to work my way over the chockstone and onto the alcove above. This is the traditional belay and since my mouth was so dry by this time that I was "spitting cotton", I set the belay anchors to bring Roy on up. It had taken a long time and I was tired, Roy made some "encouraging" comments to bolster my confidence and I decided to change my plan. I had decided to walk off a ledge that is just right and above the belay, but with Roy's attitude, I decided he wanted to climb the notorious "Throat" on the second pitch. Of course I should have known it would have a bigger impact on me than Roy.

I started up the pitch, it has an awkward move over a bush onto the ledge I mentioned earlier. Then the climbing goes up a steep crack into the "throat" chimney. Getting up the first few moves involves imaginary footholds, the protection is excellent for an overhanging crack and there are good finger holds, but needless to say, it's strenuous. I got up to the bottom of the chimney and then had to take a rest. Once I had recovered enough to continue, I worked my way on up through the "throat". By the time I got to the top I was exhausted, I was too tired to rest. I felt very similar to how I felt climbing the "mummy crack" on the Long Climb at the beginning of the summer, whipped. I set up the belay and collapsed. I rested in order to generate enough energy to bring up Roy, who just walked up it, of course. Once at the top, Roy was enjoying the views and asking questions about the routes that can be seen from the top of the Buttress of Cracks and then he looked over at me. He quickly got very quiet and said something like "I guess we have to go now."

Soon we were back at the car, had a snack and then it was back home after a very long day for a short climb. Below is the video of the climb.

Suicide Rock, 10/10/2009

Once again Roy was late, only 5 minutes this time, so no complaints. We headed out to Idyllwild. I had seriously thought about going to Joshua Tree with the cooler weather we'd had the past few days, but it was starting to warm up. My last forecasts were 80 degrees in Joshua Tree and 67 degrees in Idyllwild. I decided to go for a little chill in the air. When we arrived at Humber Park, there were no vehicles parked at the Suicide parking area and not too many up at the Tahquitz parking areas. Most of the people milling around seemed to be climbers with only a few hikers in the parking lot. I quickly decided to head on up to Suicide. Of course the fact that my wife had told me to do a short climb after seeing how tired I was after last weekend may have been a factor in my decision.

When we parked by the Suicide trail head, there was one vehicle, with a single occupant, we figured he was waiting for the rest of his group. We started on up the trail and didn't see anyone else along the way. I thought I heard some voices behind us, but for once no-one overtook us on the trail. We stopped at the base of the Weeping Wall. It isn't very often that I don't see anyone else at the Weeping Wall, so I'm writing this in my climbing diary/blog. The rock was beautiful with the morning sun on it, a light cool breeze was blowing and I had the feeling that it was going to be a good day.

Roy signing in for the permit

Looking up at the Weeping Wall

Looking up at the sea of granite there wasn't much decision on what route to do, it had to be the easiest, since we had been climbing cracks all summer. Surprise 5.8 was going to be one. As we were preparing for the climb, little voices in the back of my brain kept telling me to add pieces of gear, until I had a small rack of about a dozen pieces of protection. While my memory isn't always what I'd like it to be, it served me well on this occasion. I started up the climb and soon was at the end of the crack that marks the beginning of the climb. I put in a good nut and started out on the waves of granite. At least it seems like waves to me when I look at the undulating features on this face. Of course I had also blocked out of my memory the fact that I wouldn't have any more protection opportunities until I reached the first anchor bolts. The first pitch is easy and I didn't have any problems, even though I was third classing the majority of the pitch. Roy says that's where he and I have a significant ideological difference, no way would he lead that. I think he would, he just likes to be dramatic at times.

Roy PATIENTLY waiting at the start of Surprise

Looking down from just above my only pro on the first pitch

As I climbed, I had to stop and take pictures (OK, breathe) and enjoy the views. This is a beautiful face and it has always had a special attraction for me, since I first started climbing over 30 years ago.

Looking down from the first rest ledge

Surprise was the first climb that I ever did on Suicide Rock. It was late in the season, overcast and very cool. I did the climb with my brother and when I came to the crux, I thought it was totally blank. Somehow I made the friction moves and friction climbing has been my favorite type of climbing, if that's possible.

Looking up at the first belay, only about 30 more feet

Soon I was clipping into the belay anchors and Roy was running up the rock. He has a disconcerting way of making whatever I've just climbed seem easier than I remember it, even with short term memory. Soon he was clipping into the belay next to me and it was time for me to take off again.

Roy nearing the end of the first pitch

Looking up towards the top of the wall from the first belay

I start up, the second pitch traverses off up and right along a ledge to a bolt about 30 feet from the belay. The rock is certainly getting steeper by this time and it seems a long way to get to that first bolt.

Looking up from the first bolt

Once at the first bolt I clip in and start up and slightly left. I'm headed up for a large crack that's about another 30 feet. The moves off this bolt are the crux and soon I'm on easy ground and moving up to the crack.

Looking down from the base of the large crack

Once I reach the crack, it's time to put in some protection, this time I choose a chock in an old piton scar. It looks like a solid placement and I'm off again, climbing up the crack. At the top of the crack I put in another piece of protection and then it's up and slightly left to the belay anchor.

Chock placement at the base of the crack

Looking down the second pitch

I take a quick picture while I catch my breath and then I tell Roy to come on up. But wait, he yells up that he's not ready, he wants to take a picture of Tahquitz Rock. Well, I look over and see that Tahquitz is mostly in shadow from our viewpoint and make a comment to that effect to Roy. He's stubborn and takes the picture anyway.

Looking at Tahquitz from the second belay

Looking up the third pitch, it follows the crack and then cuts over and up to the tree

After we finish taking our pictures, Roy comes on up, he makes some comments about the protection, it was three on this pitch, counting the bolt. Again it's time for me to climb. I start up and over to the base of a huge crack. In many places you can climb either inside or outside this crack and often both. There are two places where I put in chocks for protection and I looked at possibly climbing the finish to another climb off to the left, but decided against it. Soon I was up to the tree and then making my way up to the top. I put in the belay and brought up Roy.

Roy at the second belay

Roy on easy ground at the top

Roy didn't stop at the belay, but went straight over to the rappel station. I soon joined him and we rappelled down between the main wall and Paisano Pinnacle, a 60 foot block sitting on the top of the South Face. It has some interesting "routes" on it, including a roof crack that is a test piece of overhanging off width crack climbing.

Roy setting up the first rappel

Roy starting down the first rappel

Looking out towards South Idyllwild under the Paisano overhang

At the east end of the Paisano ledge is the second rappel. This section was routinely downclimbed when I first started climbing here, but several years ago a large block of rock slid off the top, near the first belay anchors and left some debris on the route. There had been a fatal accident on the down climb, rated 5.6 and someone wisely decided to put in the current rappel anchors. From the end of this rappel, its still about 100 feet of scrambling to get to the base of the wall.

Roy on the second rappel

Looking at Insomnia, crack on right side of overhanging face

At the end of the second rappel, Roy was impressed with the view of the Insomnia Crack. It is overhanging the entire length of the climb and looks as impressive as it is formidable to climb.

Once we arrived at the base of the wall, we took a few minutes for rehydration and a granola bar. Some day I'll find something convenient as granola bars, that I actually like. While refueling we watched a tailless lizard and discussed what to do next. The first climb had been so enjoyable that I had to do another. With a limited rack, I didn't want to try a crack climb, but wasn't sure I was ready to tackle anything harder than Surprise. With the mild temperature, pleasant sun and beautiful surroundings it didn't take long for my imagination to run wild and I decided we would climb Serpentine, 5.9 and unforgiving if my memory served me right.

Looking at the start of Serpentine

The start of the climb goes up a short easy crack and then quickly turns into a steep friction face with very small holds. After a few thin moves you reach the first bolt. I figured if I could reach the first bolt OK, I'd be able to do the climb. Now just to make sure I didn't make things easy, I decided to try out a new pair of climbing shoes. I had picked up a pair of the latest high performance shoes from an old friend and decided it was time to try them. I had no idea how well I would be able to climb in them, or if they would be the wrong type of shoe for this climb. The weeping wall is notorious for friction and these Madrock shoes seemed more for edging and crack climbing. They have a reverse camber and very stiff lateral stability. Well, I started off and the shoes worked just fine. Soon I made the first bolt, with no falls or even significant slips. I was getting a good feeling.

Looking down from the third bolt

The climbing didn't ease off too much, it hurts sometimes to get old, but it kept going and so did I. While it wasn't a romp in the park, I was really enjoying myself. The climbing kept challenging me and yet was within my abilities. This is what climbing is about, testing yourself both mentally and physically. Soon I had reached the first belay.

Looking down the first pitch

Looking up the second pitch

Roy again did a fine job of following the first pitch, although he claimed to not like it because it was too difficult, I noticed he didn't fall, so I don't believe him. At the belay he handed over the gear, there were as many placements on the first pitch as I placed on the entire first climb. He put me on belay and I started up. While I had been pleased with the first pitch, I was having some doubts about the second. The crux is a fairly blank move on pure friction, just a bit higher than I like to be above my last protection. I looked at the possibilities and kept thinking to myself, how is it that this was once considered a 5.9 minus. It must have become polished since then, as well as having holds break, yeah right... . I decided to take a more serious look at the crux, meaning try out the initial holds and go up on them, they seemed to be holding so I kept on going and soon I was on a good ledge with a bolt. I let out a whoop and took a minute to enjoy the view, as well as catch my breath.

Looking up at the base of the crux

Looking down on the crux

After savoring the moment, I continued on up. The climbing isn't over yet and the route traverses off to the right with some interesting moves. Through all of this the shoes continued to work magnificently, as far as the climbing went. I began to notice something else, my feet were beginning to become sore. For a snug pair of performance climbing shoes this is not unexpected, but it's still not fun. Meanwhile I made my way up to the belay station. Once I was clipped into the belay, it felt good to rest. Roy as usual sort of ran up the pitch, someone forgot to tell him to slow down for the crux, or else he would have pretended to hem and haw like I did, just to make me feel better about myself. He did speak French or something when he arrived at the belay and seemed a little more excited than the first pitch, but I can't be too sure.

Looking down from the second belay

Roy nearing the second belay

Looking up the third pitch

The third pitch has fond memories for me. When I first climbed this pitch, it was a cold November day, overcast and threatening to rain. Well, the good news was it didn't rain. I was climbing with my brother and he must have been a little spent from leading the crux. He decided it was time for me to make my first lead. He explained to me how to clip the carabiners to the bolts for protection and how to tie off to a tree for the belay once I arrived at the top. A very brief lesson in how to lead. I started up and found it to be much more difficult than he had suggested. While I was desperately trying to climb without falling, I was also struggling to keep my hands warm, they were going numb from the cold. I also noticed that little white things started floating through the air, at first very few. I thought I might be imagining, but soon it was obvious, we were being snowed on. Fortunately it wasn't enough to affect the climbing, but it was cold. Well somehow I was able to finish and we survived. On this day, with the perfect temperatures it was a joy to finish except for my toes. The shoes were exacting their toll and on one foothold, the pain was so great that I almost fell on purpose, just to relieve the pain. I somehow didn't fall, some ingrained thing against falling I suspect. Once on top, the pain wasn't nearly so bad and I made a belay station and brought up Roy. By this time we were in the shade and with the breeze it was beginning to get very cool. We hurried down to the base of the wall and changed shoes, packed up and headed off toward home. Nearly a perfect day of climbing.