Desert Views

DATE WITH A MAIDEN

September 19, 2009

Well, it finally happened, I had my "play date" with my long time friend Albert and his son Kevin. We normally get together once a year for a weekend camping trip in Joshua Tree. They had planned on climbing in Idyllwild with me a few weeks ago, but decided due to the hot weather and all the So Cal fires, that conditions wouldn't be so good and bailed. Yesterday was the first day we were able to match schedules. We had decided to climb the White Maiden's Walkaway, since it would be the first time that Kevin would be on a multi pitch climb. I also think that Albert has some fond memories of this climb from when we were climbing partners back in college days. I have to admit that his memory is good, even after roughly 30 years.

We agreed to meet at Humber Park at 8am. Fortunately my watch died a few weeks ago and so while I knew they were late, I had no idea how much. In the meantime I was able to leisurely put on my sun screen, socks and shoes, finish my coffee and people watch. I think that the recent wildfires have had an impact on Mt. San Jacinto and the surrounding wilderness. I had heard that the Station Fire had caused a number of areas to be closed to the public and I think I got to see first hand a large number of the displaced hikers. During the time I was waiting, I saw three large organized groups of hikers. What surprised me the most was that two of the groups were Japanese. They didn't come in tour busses, but one group did do a "count off" before heading up the trail. One thing that impressed me was that they were very well protected from the sun, with a few of them even wearing gloves. I didn't think it would be polite to take pictures of them, but next time I will, when they pose for their group pictures.

After people watching for a while, Albert and Kevin showed up. We sorted out our gear and then hit the trail. The hike from the parking lot to the rock is normally about 45 minutes for me, I'm not the fastest hiker out there. After hiking about 15 minutes, Albert mentioned that it was almost 10am, I guess they were considerably later than I had thought. When we arrived at the rock, there were the most climbers I've seen this year. I know I've said that before, but it was true. We saw climbers on the Uneventful, Hoodunit, Long Climb, Sahara Terror, Consolation, The Flakes, The Vampire and several other climbs that I wasn't sure of the names of. I'm wondering if more climbers are climbing closer to "home" now that school has or is about to start?

Albert and Kevin approaching the start of the climb

I asked Albert and Kevin if they wanted the easiest version of the climb, or if they wanted to make it a little more challenging, they opted for the latter. With that, we did the start at a steep crack near the beginning of the Long Climb. This goes up and zig zags through some trees, which creates a lot of rope drag. Rope drag is the enemy of the lead climber, because the effect creates a pulling force of unwanted extra pounds on the climber. The more rope drag, the more pounds required to pull the rope up behind you. Kind of like an instant weight gain. I figure I weigh more than I'd like when climbing as is, so I don't like rope drag and I stopped after half a pitch and set up the first belay. Kevin quickly followed and then Albert came up with Kevin belaying him. The start can be kind of tricky and Albert took a slip on the start. No damage was done except for the surprise factor to his composure, but he took it all in stride.

Albert on the first pitch

The second pitch started up a wide crack, which for me means strenuous, but it went well and the crack soon narrows down to good hand jams with lots of good face holds for the feet. This section parallels the actual "walkaway" on the true Maiden route. At the end of another half pitch, the climbing traverses over to the regular route and and then on to the top of a prominent gendarme. This is a natural belay station, with great views and a large flat area. We took a break for some photos, water and snacks.

Kevin belaying Albert up the second pitch

Albert climbing the second pitch

Albert near the end of the second pitch (what's he thinking?)

Albert clipping into the anchors at the end of the second pitch

The third pitch is one of my favorites, this pitch goes up some classic white rock, very solid, very clean. The moves are fun and airy. This was another short pitch, ending on a large ledge. This pitch has a couple of fixed pins, which Kevin had never seen before. Besides some family camping trips to Joshua Tree, his climbing has mostly been relegated to the climbing gym. We switched the line up for this pitch, with Albert coming up second and Kevin coming up last. I was the designated videographer while Albert belayed. I was using two camera to record Kevin's ascent of the pitch.

Kevin starting the third pitch

Kevin on some of the fun moves of the third pitch

I then started up the fourth pitch, this one has the infamous "doubtful corner". From the belay one traverses the big ledge to the left and then the climb goes up an exposed corner on some very good rock, similar to the quality of the rock on the previous pitch. As this pitch goes up, it goes to a ledge, that is from two to three feet wide and about eight feet long. On this ledge is a large block of rock that will be gone some day, but who knows when, for now it just sits on the ledge, gravity holding it in place. The climb goes to the right edge of the ledge, where there is a good crack for a bomber nut placement, then you walk left across the ledge, on top of the loose block to the outside edge of a corner. The climber must then go around the edge of the rock and into the corner, all the while looking down on the recess in the rock where the Long Climb, Consolation and others go. This recess results in the climber being on top of a large overhang at this point. Once around the corner you are quickly in reach of a large old Mountain Mahogany and once on top of the tree, it's a good time to set up another belay, again about a half pitch. With all the traversing, the rope drag is starting to build up at this point and it's fun to watch the climber's reaction to the corner. For three people this belay is a little bit of a squeeze, but you can't argue about the intensity of the view.

Albert enjoying the exposure at doubtful corner

Kevin "stepping out" around doubtful corner

The next pitch goes straight up some very easy climbing for almost one hundred and fifty feet and then traverses off to the right to a interesting ledge. This ledge has a flake about waist high that you can stand behind or sit on and enjoy great views looking down to the beginning of the climb. About this time Albert and Kevin were commenting quite a bit on the gliders over the mountain. Since they haven't been climbing with Roy and me this summer, I didn't want to concern them with our theory that the gliders are actually watching us.

The sixth pitch traverses off to the right some more and then on to the top. As with most of this route, the climbing was on easy excellent rock and very exposed. We were all soon on top and as we coiled the ropes and racked the gear, the party from the Long Climb joined us. We had been in the shadow on almost the entire climb and now up on the shoulder of the rock we were in full sun and the wind died down. The increase in the heat was almost unbearable. We also noticed the start of the Vail fire near Vail Lake in the Temecula area.

The Vail Fire just starting over by Temecula

We moved on up to the true summit and then had water and snacks while we enjoyed the views. Kevin signed the register and everyone took and posed for photos and video. Then it was back down the east gully and to the cars.