On the Veteran's Day we met bright and early in Beaumont and carpooled up to Idyllwild. It didn't look like very many people were climbing at Suicide, only one other car, so we parked and got ready for the hike. Of course Albert and his son Kevin had said all along that they wanted to climb at Suicide. We made the hike and soon were at the base of the Weeping Wall. For a warm-up I thought we'd climb Surprise, 5.8. Everyone was excited to go and soon we were geared up and ready to climb.
Kevin is ready to go
Albert is getting ready to go
Looking down the first pitch
Soon I'm on my way up the first pitch. Since I have done this climb already this year, I try to go on some variations and on this face, you can pretty much go anywhere with out getting into trouble on this first pitch. While at the belay I spotted one of the two climbing parties we would see all day.
Climbers by the dead tree
Looking up toward the top of the rock
Soon Kevin was heading up the rock. He moved right along and was up to the belay in no time.
Kevin telling me how the climbing on the first pitch was for him
Of course once Kevin was up, it was time to bring up Albert. Old dad showed that he still had it in him as he also motored up to the belay.
Albert about half way up the first pitch
Albert near the end of the first pitch, looking like a friction master
Even though the ledge was big, I wanted to get moving, maybe because it was a cool day. This was the first time I've climbed with a jacket since last winter.
Looking down from the second belay
The second pitch has the crux move on it and it was fun to try and do it just a little differently than my previous climb. After I reached the belay, then Kevin came up. He slowed down just a little for the crux, but not much.
Kevin telling me about the second pitch, he enjoyed the problem solving
As soon as Kevin was situated, Albert came on up, making short work of this pitch just like the first one.
Albert checking out the crux
Albert at the crux section
Albert climbing the crack near the end of the second pitch
Soon I was off again, leading up the third pitch. I didn't have much opportunity for variations on this pitch, but it was still fun. Soon I was up on top and Kevin was on his way up. He got stalled on a step out of the large groove and had to continue up the groove to the belay. He was a little hard on himself for not going the exact same way I went, but now he has a reason to come back.
I think that Kevin liked the climb
Albert climbing out of the groove
Albert near the top
Albert finished the climb and we headed over to the descent. Soon the rope was threaded and Kevin was rappelling down. We quickly made our way down, with stops to check out Paisano Pinnacle and Insomnia. Once at the base we had a light lunch and then headed over to the North end of the rock, since Albert wanted to look at The Flower of High Rank, one of the most beautiful climbs in Southern California.
Kevin on the rappel
The Guillotine flakes
Once we arrived at the north end, we checked out the Flower and then started to decide which climb we wanted to do. There was another party on Yours which had been my first choice, so with a little encouragement from Albert, I decided to try the Guillotine (Roy knew he didn't want to go). With great trepidation I started up. I made sure to put in plenty of protection and despite my lack of confidence, I managed to make the climb. There were no style points awarded.
I'm laybacking on the first major flake
Placing protection at the base of the second major flake
Lots of laybacking on this climb
Kevin on the slab at the base of the climb
Kevin laying away
Kevin problem solving
After I made it to the belay, I brought up Kevin and then Albert. Neither of them seemed as worn out as I felt. The temperature was falling by this time and even with my jacket on I was getting chilled. We made use of the new rappel anchors and soon were on the ground and headed back to the car. As usual, it was another great day of climbing.
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