With Albert & Kevin at Suicide Rock 11/11/2009

I got an e-mail from my friend Albert asking if I was going to have Veteran's Day off work. I checked and was finally able to confirm that I did and answered him. By that time he wasn't sure that other plans hadn't been made for him, but at the last minute (more or less) we agreed that we were a go. Roy suspected that I would try to hurt him like the Captain Hook climb, so he said he was busy and couldn't go. How can a retired guy be busy?

On the Veteran's Day we met bright and early in Beaumont and carpooled up to Idyllwild. It didn't look like very many people were climbing at Suicide, only one other car, so we parked and got ready for the hike. Of course Albert and his son Kevin had said all along that they wanted to climb at Suicide. We made the hike and soon were at the base of the Weeping Wall. For a warm-up I thought we'd climb Surprise, 5.8. Everyone was excited to go and soon we were geared up and ready to climb.

Kevin is ready to go

Albert is getting ready to go

Looking down the first pitch

Soon I'm on my way up the first pitch. Since I have done this climb already this year, I try to go on some variations and on this face, you can pretty much go anywhere with out getting into trouble on this first pitch. While at the belay I spotted one of the two climbing parties we would see all day.

Climbers by the dead tree

Looking up toward the top of the rock

Soon Kevin was heading up the rock. He moved right along and was up to the belay in no time.

Kevin telling me how the climbing on the first pitch was for him

Of course once Kevin was up, it was time to bring up Albert. Old dad showed that he still had it in him as he also motored up to the belay.

Albert about half way up the first pitch

Albert near the end of the first pitch, looking like a friction master

Even though the ledge was big, I wanted to get moving, maybe because it was a cool day. This was the first time I've climbed with a jacket since last winter.

Looking down from the second belay

The second pitch has the crux move on it and it was fun to try and do it just a little differently than my previous climb. After I reached the belay, then Kevin came up. He slowed down just a little for the crux, but not much.

Kevin telling me about the second pitch, he enjoyed the problem solving

As soon as Kevin was situated, Albert came on up, making short work of this pitch just like the first one.

Albert checking out the crux

Albert at the crux section

Albert climbing the crack near the end of the second pitch

Soon I was off again, leading up the third pitch. I didn't have much opportunity for variations on this pitch, but it was still fun. Soon I was up on top and Kevin was on his way up. He got stalled on a step out of the large groove and had to continue up the groove to the belay. He was a little hard on himself for not going the exact same way I went, but now he has a reason to come back.

I think that Kevin liked the climb

Albert climbing out of the groove

Albert near the top

Albert finished the climb and we headed over to the descent. Soon the rope was threaded and Kevin was rappelling down. We quickly made our way down, with stops to check out Paisano Pinnacle and Insomnia. Once at the base we had a light lunch and then headed over to the North end of the rock, since Albert wanted to look at The Flower of High Rank, one of the most beautiful climbs in Southern California.

Kevin on the rappel

The Guillotine flakes

Once we arrived at the north end, we checked out the Flower and then started to decide which climb we wanted to do. There was another party on Yours which had been my first choice, so with a little encouragement from Albert, I decided to try the Guillotine (Roy knew he didn't want to go). With great trepidation I started up. I made sure to put in plenty of protection and despite my lack of confidence, I managed to make the climb. There were no style points awarded.

I'm laybacking on the first major flake

Placing protection at the base of the second major flake

Lots of laybacking on this climb

Kevin on the slab at the base of the climb

Kevin laying away

Kevin problem solving

After I made it to the belay, I brought up Kevin and then Albert. Neither of them seemed as worn out as I felt. The temperature was falling by this time and even with my jacket on I was getting chilled. We made use of the new rappel anchors and soon were on the ground and headed back to the car. As usual, it was another great day of climbing.

Providence Mountains

I had an unexpected day off on November 2nd, so Roy and I decided to go exploring. Years ago, 20+ I heard about a cave that had been found with a small opening. The opening is too small to even stick your head in, but the cave then opens up and goes vertically down an unknown distance. I found the cave and looked at it a couple of times and then haven't been back since. I had told this story to Roy and he has been intrigued ever since, so much so that he has put together a remote video camera system that could be lowered into the cave to see if it goes around the corner and dead ends, or if it could be the next big thing.

We start before dawn and watch the sun come up on a beautiful day. We drove out to the Providence Mountains reminiscing about other adventures (or misadventures) we've had in the Mojave National Preserve. After about a three hour drive we were at the visitor center. We checked in the Ranger to let staff know what we were up to so they didn't mistake us for ne'er-do-wells. Hey, you can't blame us for trying.

Soon we made our way out to where I thought I would quickly find the cave and we started searching.
According to the park web site, they have big horn sheep at the higher elevations, I don't know about that, but it appears they have deer.

We wandered around the hillsides and bases of the cliffs, searching and searching. We found that the area is very rugged, but not the cave we were looking for.

There are other caves in the area, one of the more famous ones, besides the Mitchell Caverns, is Cave of the Winding Stair, it's easy to identify because of the locked gate.

We searched high and low, note our vehicle in the distance.

I did find some potential caves, but not the one I was looking for. I also found lots of cactus, I was able to remove about a half dozen cholla balls from my legs. Of course, lot's of cat claw acacia found me, I have lots of scabs to prove it. Next time I'm going to wear long pants.
The rock formations are very interesting, in this area the rock is limestone, which can be very sharp. In places there are intrusions called xenoliths imbedded in the limestone. After more hours than I care to remember (sort of) we gave up. The day before in Joshua Tree I had been unable to find the iron door cave. Now I'm beginning to have real credibility problems.

As we drove back out to the visitor center we noticed this dead yucca. I thought someone decorated it until I got a closer look, how weird is that?

This barrel cactus is competing for the most suckers, I counted at least seven barrels.

I love the views from the porch at the visitor center.

Another view from the porch.

A cave formation on the porch.

I always enjoy the Providence Mountains, but this visit was very frustrating for me. I now have a grudge visit, I'm going to find the cave. It's just a matter of time and of course that's the real problem, we never seem to have enough time.

Joshua Tree, November 1st

With the weather getting cooler, we decided that it's time to go back to Joshua Tree, besides, it's a shorter day if you have other important things you need to do back at home, like take a nap.

Hiking in to Echo Rock

Being a creature of habit, we head over to Echo Rock and go for a warm-up climb on Double Dip, always a favorite.

Roy belaying at base of Double Dip 5.6

Looking down from 3rd bolt

The view towards the parking lot

Looking Down at a Dip

Roy at the finish of the climb

After climbing Double Dip we moved down the rock to Stichter Quits 5.8, also known as Black Tide (I think a more elegant name) and climbed it.

Roy Belaying on Black Tide

Looking up from first bolt

Looking up from 2nd bolt

Looking down from 2nd bolt

Looking down from 3rd bolt

Looking up from 4th and last bolt

The view down from the 4th bolt

Looking down from the belay

We decided it was time to move on to something else, so we headed over to Cyclops Rock and noticed that no-one was climbing the Eye route. The Eye 5.3 is an easy climb, but special and certainly one of my favorites.

The trail to the rock is well marked

Cyclops Rock

Looking up the Eye route

Roy belaying at the base of the Eye

The first protection, sometimes I get carried away...

The route goes up left of center

Bomber protection

A great view

Looking down the route

That's how I see it

Roy about to climb

The view from the top

We then called it a day so we could get back to our busy productive lives. The only drawbacks to the day were that we didn't have more time (Roy also says energy) and defacing of Cyclops with graffiti.

Videos of our climbs