Desert Views: Picacho Peak Again

This is a continuation from the Indian Pass post, this is day two of the adventure. We last saw our fearless trio exploring along the Colorado River and finally coming into view of Pichacho Del Diablo late in the afternoon. We normally camp in a small wash north of the peak, but on our last visit we found that with washouts the going was much more difficult on the vehicle, 4x4 wasn't enough, higher clearance was needed. In order to maintain our reputation as being efficient climbers, that means saving your energy for when you really need it, we tried to find a closer spot to camp. We think we most likely succeeded, but we aren't too sure, the effort in driving to our campsite involved about as much work as hiking the extra distance in the standard wash. We had an unremarkable evening and then went to sleep. Roy slept by the car and Charlene and I went down into the wash to sleep on the sand. I always think sand is more comfortable to sleep on than rocks and gravel.

During the night we found out that we weren't the only ones who like being down in the wash, as a group of burros came through. We were woken up and they were surprised, they didn't know what to do so they stomped around us for a while and then finally went on their way, allowing us to go back to sleep.

As the sun came up, we had our traditional egg breakfast and then started hiking to the peak. For quite a ways we followed the tracks of a Rhino or similar vehicle, I was surprised at how rugged the terrain was that they were able to navigate. Those vehicles must be very capable, or the driver really into pushing it, or both. The hike in seemed to be about 15 minutes shorter than on our last trip, so I guess we were really closer. Soon we reached the base and started climbing up the slopes to the base of the cliffs.

Charlene being a good sport, but the smile shows some uncertianty

As always, the hike up to the cliffs is a grind on those of us who need to get in better shape. You would think that I know I need more exercise and wouldn't go out on these confirmations trips so often.

Youth wins again, Charlene at the base of the cliff

We made our way over to the gully leading to the start of the climbing. Roy had gotten a little behind but soon caught up with us and we started the 3rd class up the gully.

Looking up the 3rd class gully

As we moved up the gully, we took advantage of the views for excuses to stop and catch our breath.

Soon we were on the climb, Charlene on the first ladder

Roy coming up the first ladder

After the first ladder the route works it's way back and forth, always going higher on the north face of the peak. During this time one is always amazed that this route exists. It looks impossible that a relative easy climb could be made when looking from below, but improbable ledges cut into the side of the cliff keep making diagonals ever up towards the top. Soon we were at the second ladder. This one is much more exposed (much better view) than the first.

One of the features that help make it interesting is the fact that it's a very narrow ladder and it wobbles also. Thank goodness for the very tired looking old piece of webbing tied to the top.

Roy coming up the second ladder

As you stand up on the shoulder of the rock, you notice a tremendous view and that you are now on top levels of the rock.

View as you stand on shoulder above second ladder

From this point you walk over a low rise to the middle of the top. Here is a vertical section that blocks your way. For this short section, you have to do a couple of 5th class moves.

Here I am, getting ready to make the 5th class moves up the rock

In the middle of the moves

Finishing the moves

And standing up on the top

After getting up on the block, I quickly secured the rope to some bolted anchors and brought everyone else up. After we were all on top, we then walked about 70 feet to the other end of this block and had to rappel down the other side in order to continue up to the actual summit.

Roy rappelling down the other end of the block

Charlene making the rappel

After the rappel we left the rope in place, since we won't need it again until we head back down the peak and have to climb back onto the block in the middle of the top. From there it's just a few hundred feet of walking along the top, with a gradual elevation gain to the true summit.

Charlene and Roy walking over to the summit

The summit register

Charlene getting me in trouble with her mother, by telling her where we are

After signing the summit register, eating a snack and making important phone calls, we headed back down.

Charlene watches as I get ready to ascend the rope to the top of the block

I'm climbing the rope to the top of the block

It normally takes just a few minutes to ascend the rope, although there have been notable exceptions. We then walked back across to the other end and rappelled back down that end.

Charlene on the final rappel

After the rappel it's then a simple matter of retracing your steps back to the bottom, with the ladders and step across to slow you a little.

Improbable trails along the side of the cliff

Charlene and Roy hiking down the diagonals

Roy on the incredible terrain

A natural bridge

Please stay on the trail

Roy on the famous "step across"

Charlene on the "step across"

Most of us don't have the nerve to come down the ladder like this

Charlene has a much more confident look as we near the bottom of the climb

The view out the opposite side of the approach gully

Once we were off the climb, we changed out of our rock shoes and headed back down the approach gully. Soon we were at the base. We decided to try a different trail and make a shortcut.