Picacho Peak Again

This is a continuation from the Indian Pass post, this is day two of the adventure. We last saw our fearless trio exploring along the Colorado River and finally coming into view of Pichacho Del Diablo late in the afternoon. We normally camp in a small wash north of the peak, but on our last visit we found that with washouts the going was much more difficult on the vehicle, 4x4 wasn't enough, higher clearance was needed. In order to maintain our reputation as being efficient climbers, that means saving your energy for when you really need it, we tried to find a closer spot to camp. We think we most likely succeeded, but we aren't too sure, the effort in driving to our campsite involved about as much work as hiking the extra distance in the standard wash. We had an unremarkable evening and then went to sleep. Roy slept by the car and Charlene and I went down into the wash to sleep on the sand. I always think sand is more comfortable to sleep on than rocks and gravel.

During the night we found out that we weren't the only ones who like being down in the wash, as a group of burros came through. We were woken up and they were surprised, they didn't know what to do so they stomped around us for a while and then finally went on their way, allowing us to go back to sleep.

As the sun came up, we had our traditional egg breakfast and then started hiking to the peak. For quite a ways we followed the tracks of a Rhino or similar vehicle, I was surprised at how rugged the terrain was that they were able to navigate. Those vehicles must be very capable, or the driver really into pushing it, or both. The hike in seemed to be about 15 minutes shorter than on our last trip, so I guess we were really closer. Soon we reached the base and started climbing up the slopes to the base of the cliffs.

Charlene being a good sport, but the smile shows some uncertianty

As always, the hike up to the cliffs is a grind on those of us who need to get in better shape. You would think that I know I need more exercise and wouldn't go out on these confirmations trips so often.

Youth wins again, Charlene at the base of the cliff

We made our way over to the gully leading to the start of the climbing. Roy had gotten a little behind but soon caught up with us and we started the 3rd class up the gully.

Looking up the 3rd class gully

As we moved up the gully, we took advantage of the views for excuses to stop and catch our breath.

Soon we were on the climb, Charlene on the first ladder

Roy coming up the first ladder

After the first ladder the route works it's way back and forth, always going higher on the north face of the peak. During this time one is always amazed that this route exists. It looks impossible that a relative easy climb could be made when looking from below, but improbable ledges cut into the side of the cliff keep making diagonals ever up towards the top. Soon we were at the second ladder. This one is much more exposed (much better view) than the first.

One of the features that help make it interesting is the fact that it's a very narrow ladder and it wobbles also. Thank goodness for the very tired looking old piece of webbing tied to the top.

Roy coming up the second ladder

As you stand up on the shoulder of the rock, you notice a tremendous view and that you are now on top levels of the rock.

View as you stand on shoulder above second ladder

From this point you walk over a low rise to the middle of the top. Here is a vertical section that blocks your way. For this short section, you have to do a couple of 5th class moves.

Here I am, getting ready to make the 5th class moves up the rock

In the middle of the moves

Finishing the moves

And standing up on the top

After getting up on the block, I quickly secured the rope to some bolted anchors and brought everyone else up. After we were all on top, we then walked about 70 feet to the other end of this block and had to rappel down the other side in order to continue up to the actual summit.

Roy rappelling down the other end of the block

Charlene making the rappel

After the rappel we left the rope in place, since we won't need it again until we head back down the peak and have to climb back onto the block in the middle of the top. From there it's just a few hundred feet of walking along the top, with a gradual elevation gain to the true summit.

Charlene and Roy walking over to the summit

The summit register

Charlene getting me in trouble with her mother, by telling her where we are

After signing the summit register, eating a snack and making important phone calls, we headed back down.

Charlene watches as I get ready to ascend the rope to the top of the block

I'm climbing the rope to the top of the block

It normally takes just a few minutes to ascend the rope, although there have been notable exceptions. We then walked back across to the other end and rappelled back down that end.

Charlene on the final rappel

After the rappel it's then a simple matter of retracing your steps back to the bottom, with the ladders and step across to slow you a little.

Improbable trails along the side of the cliff

Charlene and Roy hiking down the diagonals

Roy on the incredible terrain

A natural bridge

Please stay on the trail

Roy on the famous "step across"

Charlene on the "step across"

Most of us don't have the nerve to come down the ladder like this

Charlene has a much more confident look as we near the bottom of the climb

The view out the opposite side of the approach gully

Once we were off the climb, we changed out of our rock shoes and headed back down the approach gully. Soon we were at the base. We decided to try a different trail and make a shortcut.

Hey, let's follow this trail, it looks like a shortcut

Well, that doesn't make such a good descent route after all, next time stay on the regular trail

This is an impressive formation that we hiked past on the way back to the car, the "finger" is about 100 feet tall.

Once back at the car, we treated ourselves to a well deserved lunch and then continued with our explorations.

Picacho Peak

January 9 & 10, 2010

Ever since I first started climbing, I was always interested in climbs that sounded exotic, required some travel to get to and were not commonly climbed. Over the years I found that this often meant that the climbs were less than desirable for one reason or another. One of exceptions that I found is Picacho Del Diablo. This climb is in the very south east corner of California, in sight of the Colorado River. This climb had come to my attention early in my climbing career, but I had always thought that it was difficult, perhaps too difficult. Plus, I wasn't too sure how to find it. After about 25 years of climbing, it all came together and I was able to make the climb. This was in no small part due to the research that Roy does on our Southern California deserts. We found the rock and the climb and made the climb, which is a story in itself, but I'll save that for another time. This has become one of my favorite climbs, maybe it's too easy for most rock climbers, but I keep coming back again and again.

Whenever I really enjoy a climb, I like to share it and so for this trip I invited some folks from work. For various reasons when it came time to go, there was only one person from work willing to go, Kat. Roy and I would make the climb without anyone else, but we were glad to have Kat along. We left the Coachella Valley about noon on the 9th and started south. Kat was running late and she caught up with us in Felicity. See my previous blog for a little introduction to Felicity. Then we drove out into the wilderness arriving at dusk.

This is a view of Picacho as we were searching for our campsite

After doing a little scouting, we set up camp and started to enjoy the evening. One of the nice features of our campsite was that we had a nice little fire going. Roy had planned ahead and brought some tree trimmings from his yard for the fire. What I didn't realize was that he hadn't planned far enough ahead. The wood he brought for the fire was wood that he had cut just a few days previously. Much to our surprise, the fire needed a lot of attention to keep going.

Wet wood dripping into the fire

Of course many of those who know me are aware that I love the opportunity for educational experiences. Here is Kat perfecting her newfound technique for opening bottles with a carabiner.
After a nice cool evening camping out under the desert stars, morning arrived and Picacho loomed in the near distance.
I made a little breakfast which we all enjoyed (although they looked away when they said they liked it) while watching the sunrise on the surrounding peaks.

Roy telling me how much he is enjoying breakfast

After we finished eating, we started hiking and soon we were under the west face of the peak. Many consider this a forbidding view, and I have to admit that I did as well, the first time I saw it. Looking up from below there is no obvious route. When you combine the size with the lack of easy looking terrain, it's very daunting. You keep saying to yourself, this looks impossible, there's no way this can be as easy as the guides say. At the point where you have this view, the hike goes from interesting walking along a stream bed to a steep hike up the lower slopes.

Kat on the steep part of the approach, enjoying the views of the rock above

Soon we are at the end of the approach. We stop to change our shoes and catch our breath. We also took advantage the views, the altitude gain already has us about half way to the top.

Soon we are on our way. As we work our way up the climb, Roy stops at the base of the infamous step across crack. Kat is saying, hey, so far so good.

Moments later we arrive at the first difficult section. The first time I made the climb there wasn't a ladder at this point. The ladder makes it much easier. Kat is looking on in disbelief, this is no way OSHA compliant.

Kat at the step across, she is saying something like "you want me to do what?"

Roy showing how it's done, making the leap of faith across the step across

The route consists of these half tubes in the side of the vertical cliff, they diagonal up one way till they end, then diagonal the other way, zig zagging the way up in a very improbable series of easy ramps.

Soon we reach the second ladder. The first ladder looks spacious compared to this one, if it looks long and narrow, that's because it is. Note that it's tied off on top with an old sling and the little pile of rock at the bottom is for psychological purposes, because it won't do any real good in securing the base of the ladder.

After ascending the second ladder, you break out onto the north shoulder of the peak. If you look carefully you can see the Colorado river in the background behind Roy. At this point we are very near the top and almost a thousand feet above the desert floor.

We continue up a gentle slope and over a false summit to reach the only technical climbing on the whole route. After going down a short way from the false summit, we reach a large block. At the end of this block we climb about a fifteen foot fifth class section of climbing and then walk about 70 feet across the block to the south end and do a rappel, again about 15 feet.

Roy on the rappel

After the rappel, we walk a few hundred feet further and we're on the true summit

At the summit we signed the register and had a snack, here Kat is adding her words of discouragement to those who come behind.

Once we finish enjoying the views from on top, it's time to go back down. Except where we had to make the rappel going to the top, now we have to ascend the rope to go down. Here I am just reaching the top of the rope ascent.

Kat coming up the rope

Kat making sure that the ladder is properly footed, just like she has been trained to do

By this time on the descent, the sun is on the west side of the mountain and we are going down in the sun. We're almost back down to where we changed our shoes.

Kat and Roy on the last little stretch before the notch where we changed our shoes

After changing our shoes, we then head down from the notch, the gully lead to the notch is steep and hot in the afternoon sun. Kat and Roy are just visible in the center of the picture.

After making our way down to easier terrain it took about a half an hour to get back to the cars. Then it was the drive out, with a minor issue of Kat getting stuck just at the intersection with the main road out to the highway. A quick push and she was on her way. The rest of the drive was uneventful, unless you consider people walking their pigs in a park... .